4 /5 Howie Li: Beautiful space, charming vibe — but a meal of highs and head-scratching lows.
The ambience is genuinely lovely. The setting inside a single-family house is super cute, warm, and intimate. Unfortunately, the execution in the kitchen doesn’t always live up to the atmosphere.
The Rosetta cookie is pretty, but that’s where its appeal ends for me. The filling is pearl onion, which feels like a deliberate nod to Canlis — but I honestly don’t understand what’s special about pearl onions here or how they’re different from regular onions in flavor or effect.
We had an off-menu appetizer of grilled cod collars, which was excellent. Deeply umami, soy-glazed with a subtle kick — rich, satisfying, and easily the highlight of the meal. I’d order this again in a heartbeat if it’s available.
For mains, we got black cod and beef coulotte. The black cod was very well executed with great doneness, and the sauce was quite classic and standard, nothing particularly distinctive.
The beef coulotte was a miss. It feels like the wrong cut for what the dish is trying to be — the cut at medium rare was tough, hard to cut, and close to impossible to chew. Good luck if you’re looking to work your chewing muscles.
Overall, Atoma has a charming setting and flashes of real skills, but inconsistent execution and some questionable menu decisions hold it back from being good.